Classic Doll Base FREE Crochet Pattern – Amigurumi Builder Series

Amigurumi Builder Series #1:

Hello, friend.

Thank you for finding interest in my work. If you’re here, I’m assuming you have taken an interest in learning how to make amigurumi. That’s great! Now we have something in common. This is the crochet pattern for the Classic Doll Base, but it is also part #1 of the Amigurumi Builder Series. A long term series where I’ll create a collection of patterns relating to amigurumi so that my fellow creators will be able to mix and match the patterns to make any ami they envision.

Now, this is no barbie doll. The design is meant to be a minimalist aesthetic, therefore you need to choose the details that you add to your character very carefully. Adding too many can make your doll look cluttered. It is best to choose the most relevant and cartoon-like traits of your character, as these are the ones that translate best into crochet.

Over the last couple of years I have played around and re-designed the doll base that I use for my amigurumi. I prefer to make them look more like caricatures rather than hyper-realistic figurines. This involves a lot of experimenting with their proportions and their size, but I have finally designed the pattern that makes them look amazing every single time ♥

Here’s how it’s going to work: you’ll begin with the Classic Doll Base, be able to choose a specific hair style + clothes + accessories and hopefully anything that you’ll need for the design you have in mind. This is why we are kicking off the Amigurumi Builder series with the simple and versatile Classic Doll Base.

The ad-free and printable version of this pattern can be found at Ribblr and Etsy.



  • MC: Magic Circle
  • Ch: Chain
  • Sc: Single Crochet
  • Sl st: Slip Stitch
  • Sc dec: Single crochet Decrease
  • Sc inc: Single crochet Increase
  • (xx): Numbers in bold mean stitch count at the end of each round

Materials Needed

  • 4.50mm Crochet Hook
  • Medium Weight Yarn (Red Heart Super Saver)
  • Polyester Fiberfill
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended)
  • Stitch Marker (improvised markers: paper clip, bobby pin, piece of different color yarn)
  • 12mm Safety eyes and their backings (optional)

This entire pattern is worked in the round and most of it is a single piece.

Starting from the top of the head in the color of your character’s skin tone:

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6: (2sc, 1 sc inc, 2sc) x6 (36)
  • Round 7-14: Sc  around. Re-place your stitch marker after completing each row.
    (8 rounds), (36)

Adding Safety Eyes

Skip this section if you’re not using safety eyes. The eyes will be placed between rounds 10 and 11, after the last stitch from round 10 count 5 stitches to the left and place the first safety eye into the next space. Count to the left and place the second eye in the 7th space from the first eye.
In the pictures below, the stitches are placed at the end of rounds 10 and 14.

  • Round 15: (2sc, 1 sc dec, 2sc) x6 (30)
  • Round 16: (3sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (24)
  • Round 17: (1sc, 1 sc dec, 1sc) x6 (18)
  • Round 18: (1sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (12)
  • Round 19: (1sc, 1 sc dec) x4 (8)
  • Round 20: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (12)
  • Round 21: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 22: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 23: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)

Count 7 stitches after the end of this round and sc into the 8th. This creates the first arm hole, we will not work on it until further on. Single crochet a total of 8 stitches across, count 7 stitches to leave untouched and sc into the 8th stitch, sc across for a total of 8 stitches. This completes the first row of the torso.

VERIFY YOUR COUNTING: You should have 2 arm holes consisting of 7 sc each and this first row of the torso should be a total of 16 stitches around.

Set your stitch marker and sc for 5 more rows for a total of 6 sc rows.


Since working in the round offsets the stitches, keep track of the end of each row. At the end of the torso’s 6th round:

  • Round 1: Sc 5 (pictured on the right), count 8 stitches, you should now be on the opposite side of the torso, sc 3 to complete the first round

You should now have divided the torso into two equal-sized holes for each leg. (8 stitches each)

Round 2-7: Sc all around

After 7 rounds, sl st and fasten off leaving a 4 inch tail. Using your yarn needle go through the outer loop of each stitch and then pull the tail to close the opening. Hide the yarn end inside.

Attach the yarn at the base of the torso next to the first leg and sc around. To close the gap between the union between the legs grab a random stitch from the middle of the first leg as well as both loops from the next stitch and work a single crochet. This completes the first round. Continue with sc all around for 6 more rounds and close the leg just like you closed the first one.


Attach the yarn to a stitch on the corner of an arm gap, ch 1, sc 7 around and work one sc on the “armpit” area (pictured). There is no evident space to place this sc but you need it in order to have proportional arms and legs.

This completes the first round. Sc around for 6 more rows for a total of 7.  Sl st and fasten off leaving a 4 inch tail. Using your yarn needle go through the outer loop of each stitch and then pull the tail to close the opening. Hide the yarn end inside.

Repeat this process on the other side to make the second arm.

This completes the Basic Doll Base pattern. You can add and change details however you need!

Thank you so much for choosing my pattern!
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You may sell your product providing pattern credit to The Grumpy Granny on TikTok, Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Pinterest, Ravelry: @the.grumpy.granny or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at

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